We have already discussed in another blog that there is no secret to keeping weeds out of your beds. But there are some ways to help prevent all of them from driving you insane and taking all your time away your family. Over these last 21 years of me working in and maintaining flower beds, I think I have tried every method possible to weed prevention. So I will share the results with you.

Method #1. Black Plastic. We went into dept on this on in an earlier blog. The old fashion black ‘plastic’ was terrible because it did not allow water to enter the soil or exit the soil. Very bad for the plants. Several years ago, they introduced black ‘fabric’. This was great because supposedly it allowed water to flow but still held the weeds back. As we talked about before in depth in the Black Fabric or No Black Fabric? Blog, weeds do not come up from the bottom as much as they do from the top.

Method #2. Newspaper. Before you install your new mulch, you can lay down several layers of newspaper to help prevent weeds from growing through. The newspaper will rot over the season and become organic material for your plants.

Method #3. Chemical called Treflan. This is my favorite method. The name brand that most people are familiar with is ‘Preen’. Miracle Gro has their version of it available, and commercial landscaping stores will carry no name products that have extra percentage of chemical in it. The active ingredient, though, is called Treflan. Treflan is a chemical that in a relative manner, neutralizes the top one inch of soil. The ingredients do not allow seeds to fully germinate. As we have talked about, weeds come from the air by seed, more than they do from an existing plant below the soil. Wind, animals, lawnmowers all force weed seeds in the air and they land in your mulch and germinate (create new plants). With Treflan, you are preventing those from ever getting started. Sprinkle the granular product over the mulch and enjoy no weeds for up to 3 months, then reapply. Do not use this in a vegetable garden though. Chemicals are not good to eat!

There is no secret to keeping weeds out of your flower bed, but there is ways to help prevent them from driving you nuts!

Happy Weeding

High Nitrogen Fertilizer

Have you ever wondered what those three numbers are that are on the fertilizer packages? 15-15-15, 28-4-6, 10-10-10, 18-24-12. The technical term for this is N-P-K. Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium.

So why are the numbers important? The numbers tell us how much of each element is in the product. It is important to know what you need for your plants before applying the fertilizer. Too much of one element can dramatically change the pH of the soil and harm the plant.

How do I know what combination I need? A soil test is the most efficient way to know what you need. This is done through the agricultural extension agency. Dig down about six inches and get a finger full of dirt, from about 6-12 areas in the yard. Mix it all together, let it dry and take it to your local co-op for it to be sent off for testing. Your results will come in the mail in about 6 weeks.

The quickest, non scientific way to know what the fertilizer does, is to remember this. The first number, nitrogen, controls the top part of the plant. It greens up the plant and makes it grow fast. The second number, phosphorous, controls the middle part of the plant. Helps to strengthen the stem and trunk structure. The third number, Potassium, controls the root structure. It helps develop stronger roots for support of the entire plant.

One thing to know is Phosphorous and Potassium will stay in the soil for long periods of time, so you can add too much of these. Nitrogen, however, leaves the soil very rapidly. Reapplying Nitrogen is very necessary for healthy plants.

Happy Fertilizing

Digging a hole

Have you ever wondered what the proper way to install that new tree that you just purchased? Well now you don’t have to wonder anymore. I have two answers for you to create your own technique. I have been installing trees and shrubs on a daily basis since 1998.

If you read in the official textbook, you will read that when digging the hole, you are to make the hole twice the width and depth of the pot. The reason being that you are loosening the soil and are able to amend the soil around the new plant to give the roots a soft area to stretch out.

If you talk to any landscaper or even some of the agricultural extension agents, they will tell you that it is unnecessary to dig a hole that large. One of the down falls to digging that big of a hole is you can trick the roots into thinking that they can stay in that loose soil and not penetrate the rest of the dirt. With larger trees, digging a hole that large can cause the tree not to have a stable foundation and the wind will blow it over before the roots take hold.

My personal experience has taught me that you can dig a hole large enough for the plant, and lightly amend the native soil with some organic material. Fill the hole with water and put the plant in the whole and squish the amended soil around the edges. Make sure you eliminate any air bubbles in the dirt, as an air gap can cause the roots to dry out. DO NOT plant the tree or shrub any deeper the dirt level of the root ball. Usually leaving it an inch higher is recommended.

Using a root stimulator product is like having life insurance for your plant. Mulch can be esthetically pleasing to the eye, help hold in moisture, and slow down weeds. DO NOT put the mulch around the trunk of the tree, changing the level of the dirt around the trunk.  Raising the dirt level of the root ball will trick the tree and it will put out roots in places it shouldn’t, ultimately killing the tree.

Happy Planting